How to Resolve No Power on the Profitec Pro 700, and/or Popping GFCI Outlets

My Machine Has No Power, Pops GFCI

If your Profitec Pro 700 has no power or is popping a GFCI outlet, there may be a power issue internally, but it may also be caused by your wiring at home. The guide below explains how to diagnose power issues on your machine and how to correct them.

NOTE: Prosumers should be on a dedicated 15 amp circuit that is not being shared with other appliances. By default, the brew boiler should heat first and the steam boiler should heat second.

The Pro 700 has an option to heat both boilers at the same time. This function can only be used on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. If the GFCI is tripping, make sure the option to heat both boilers at the same time Via the PID controller has not been selected without a dedicated 20 amp circuit to support it. Also make sure the machine is not trying to heat while sharing the circuit with other appliances such as a microwave. This will certainly require far too much draw and will cause a fault.

  • Is the green light on in the front of the machine when the power switch is flipped? This green light represents that the machine has power.
    • If the green light is not illuminated this could indicate an issue with the outlet, the power cord, or the on switch.
    • If the green light is on, is the orange light on?
      • If the orange light is not on, this means that power is not being supplied to the rest of the machine. Make sure the water tank is full and sitting properly within the reservoir support.
        • If the tank is in place with enough water inside, testing the magnet sensor for the tank would be the first and easiest place to start.
          • Remove the tank and have a magnet handy. Standing in front of the machine and looking down at the reservoir support, there is a black sensor, on the left hand side, about halfway down. Hold the magnet over that sensor and see if the orange light comes on.
            • If it does, then inspect the magnet in the tank. The magnet may have come out of where it sits and would need to be put back. The cap that holds the magnet in place should be flush with the channel that the magnet sits in. If the cap is pushed down too far or has popped upward, it will change where the magnet sits and the sensor may be unable to sense the magnet. Adjust the cap if necessary. Replace the water tank back into the reservoir support.
            • If the orange light is still not on, remove the tray. In the front of the machine behind the tray you will find two switches. They are for water source and heating the steam boiler. Make sure the switch on the right is pressed in towards the right side of the machine. If neither of these activate the orange light, there maybe an issue with the control board of the machine. This will require checking power coming in and back out of the control board with a meter, or sending the machine in to have it serviced by a tech.
  • No.
    • Try testing another appliance on the same outlet. Does this appliance have power?
      • If Yes, we recommend having the machine serviced by a tech.
        • If you’d like to get in to the machine yourself, let’s rule out heating elements on the Pro 700 first. Begin by unplugging the machine. First, we will test the brew boiler. The brew boiler is on the left side of the machine, if you are facing the front of the Pro 700. To access it, remove the water reservoir. There are four 2.5mm screws holding down the top panel; two in the back corners, and two in the front corners. Remove these screws and take the top off, setting it aside, face up, so as to not scratch the paneling. The left side panel is held in by four 3mm bolts. These bolts need only to be loosened, and do not have to be completely taken out. Look towards the back of the machine where the side panel and the rear panel meet; there is a 3mm screw there. Loosen it.

 

Follow the side panel to the front of the machine and you will find the second 3mm. It will be holding the side panel to the frame of the machine, loosen this until you can wiggle the side panel back and forth by hand. Next you can lay down a towel or a pad and rest the machine on its side. You will see the last two 3mm bolts on the underside of the machine that hold the panel. Remove these two bolts. Supporting the now loosened panel with your hand, you can flip the machine upright. Take the bottom of the panel and move it outward a bit away from the machine, slightly push back on the upper left corner of the back panel to separate it from the side panel. The last bolt holding it in place is the front bolt. This is sitting in a little channel within the frame. If you loosened it enough, you should be able to slide the panel down and then push towards the back of the machine, and the panel will come right off. Sometimes, if the bolt is not loose enough or if there are imperfections from manufacturing, the bolt can get hung up. You can take your hand and lightly tape down on the upper corner closest to you, and then lightly tap it towards the back of the machine to slide it out of the channel in the frame it rests in. To preserve the cosmetics of the side-panel, be sure to rest it either on a towel or chrome-side facing upward. Three wires are connected to the bottom plate of the brew boiler: two leads and the ground wire. Unplug the leads, and leave them unplugged. Plug the machine in and turn it on.

          • If the machine still blows the GFCI, or loses power, unplug it again. Next, we'll look at the steam boiler. Make sure the machine is unplugged. To do this, you will need to either tip the machine on it's back or side. Make sure to rest it gently on a towel or support it so that it doesn't fall over. On the bottom of the machine is a silver panel with two 3mm screws. Unscrew these and the panel will fall off. Inside, you will see the bottom plate of the steam boiler with the same three wires connecting to it: the two leads (or spade connectors) and the ground wire. Unplug the two leads. Flip the machine rightside up again so that it is sitting on all four legs. Plug the machine in and test. If it keeps power, and doesn’t blow out a GFCI, then the heating element is bad in the steam boiler and needs to be replaced.
      • Yes. Electrical testing will need to be done to check the power cord of the espresso machine. Recommend repair or professional.
      • No. The problem is your outlet.

 

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