How to Resolve No Power on the Profitec Pro 500 PID, and/or Popping GFCI Outlets

 Why Does My Profitec Pro 500 PID Have No Power, and/or Pops GFCI?

If your Profitec Pro 500 PID has no power or is popping a GFCI outlet, there may be an issue with the machine, or with the outlet itself. Refer to the step-by-step instructions below to determine why your machine isn’t able to power on.

 

NOTE: Prosumers should be on a dedicated 15 amp circuit that is not being shared with other appliances.

  • Is the green light on in the front of the machine when the power switch is flipped? This green light represents that the machine has power.
    • If the green light is not illuminated this could indicate an issue with the outlet, the power cord, or the on switch.
    • If the green light is on, is the orange light on?
      • If the orange light is not on, this means that power is not being supplied to the rest of the machine. Make sure the water tank is full and sitting properly within the reservoir support.
        • If the tank is in place with enough water inside, testing the magnet sensor for the tank would be the first and easiest place to start.
          • Remove the tank and have a magnet handy. Standing in front of the machine and looking down at the reservoir support, there is a black sensor, on the left hand side, about halfway down. Hold the magnet over that sensor and see if the orange light comes on.
            • If it does, then inspect the magnet in the tank. The magnet may have come out of where it sits and would need to be put back. The cap that holds the magnet in place should be flush with the channel that the magnet sits in. If the cap is pushed down too far or has popped upward, it will change where the magnet sits and the sensor may be unable to sense the magnet. Adjust the cap if necessary. Replace the water tank back into the reservoir support.
            • If the orange light is still not on, there may be an issue with the control board of the machine. This will require checking power coming in and back out of the control board with a meter, or sending the machine in to have it serviced by a tech.
  • No.
    • Try testing another appliance on the same outlet. Does this appliance have power?
      • If Yes, we recommend having the machine serviced by a tech.
        • If you feel comfortable accessing the machine, we can check the heating element connected to the boiler. To access the machine, we must first remove the housing. There are 4 2.5mm screws on the top (two screws in the front, and two screws in the back). With those removed, the top panel can be lifted off. Beneath the top panel is a shield with a 3mm screw going into the side panels. Unscrew those and lift the shield out of the machine. Looking into the machine from the top, you can find a screw near each of the front, top corners of the machine, which connect the side-panels to the frame of the machine. Loosen these screws (do not unscrew). When done correctly, you will be able to wiggle the side-panels but not lift them off outright. Flip the machine on its back onto a towel or other soft surface to preserve the cosmetics of the back panel. On the bottom of the machine are 4 3mm screws: two are located near the front corners of the machine, and the other two are at the rear, by the legs. Unscrew these. Return the machine upright while supporting the side-panels at the bottom. Lightly tap the side-panels from the top, causing them to drop. Support the panels by the bottom and grab back sides. Tug the side-panels gently outward and push toward the rear of the machine. The housing should come off like a sleeve.
        • You will now have access to the internals. Facing the front of the machine, the element we need to look at is located on the right end of the boiler. You will notice black and blue wires connecting to the element in the boiler. Unplug these and leave them unplugged. Plug in the machine, turn it on, and see if the GFCI pops. If it does not pop, the element needs replacing. If the GFCI still pops, turn off the machine and unplug it. The electrical is arcing somewhere in the machine. You can check for pinched wires or scorch marks to investigate what is damaged, but a repair is recommended.

 

      • Yes. Electrical testing will need to be done to check the power cord of the espresso machine. Professional repair is recommended.
      • No. The problem is your outlet.

 

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